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Post by Shaker on Jul 25, 2012 0:58:29 GMT -7
So I went out after work when the traffic was low and all the cops were at the Maverick for donuts to do a 10-cycle brake bedding. Different forums said 8-10... After cruising for a bit to let the brakes cool off per the instructions I went home and looked at the rotors to see of they looked like the description. They don't look even at all for the wear, but I'm not sure the rotors are warped much if at all. The outer half of the front passenger caliper looks like what the description should be, but the inner half just looks rust colored. Could I possibly have a seized caliper or something else or would it take more than just this picture to figure out the next step? I plan to do another 8-10 cycle tomorrow after work again. Thanks. Attachments:
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Post by Shaker on Jul 25, 2012 0:59:33 GMT -7
Because the phone app sucks at uploading pics... Here is the front driver side caliper. This one looks like barely anything happened to it during the bedding process. Brake fade happened as expected and the car doesn't pull to one side when braking. Also the wicked shimmy I've always had seems almost nonexistent now. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2012 19:39:17 GMT -7
Bump! Not sure, I just ended up replacing my front rotors cause there wasn't enough to turn em. Good luck finding answer. If they don't affect the performance and braking I wouldn't worry to much bout the lil discolor in the rotors but that is just me.
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Post by Shaker on Jul 25, 2012 19:44:13 GMT -7
I'm just worried about the massive amount of vibration at 75-80 when I'm braking. There is a bit at that speed just cruising too but I wanted to go the cheapest fix first. Bedding is free  The part I was wondering about with the coloring on the rotors was if it means that I may or may not have a seized caliper. I won't have the time to look into it until maybe this weekend or next. |
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Post by 440Gordy on Jul 26, 2012 9:42:39 GMT -7
Ok, here's my two cents.
I've put a lot of breaks on a lot of cars over the years and have never had to "Bed" the brakes so I don't know anything about that.
I've found that normally if there is a vibration when braking it's because of a warped rotor. If I had a supposition that the caliper was sticking I would just jack up the car and see if there was any excess drag on the wheel while it's in the resting state. You also should be able to remove the caliper without backing off the pads as well (unless the pads have worn a grove into the rotor that is).
My thought is if the caliper was sticking and not backing off, then it would also be sticking during breaking (but may not be the case). In which case it would cause the car to pull to one side during hard breaking.
My guess is that you have a warped rotor. It wouldn't hurt to have the rotor turned to make sure it's true. It only cost $5 a rotor at Auto Zone or someone like that. If your pads are still good you should be able to put them back on the car, as long as they are not glazed. That's where I would start.
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Post by Shaker on Jul 26, 2012 10:19:49 GMT -7
Thanks Gordy, getting the rotors turned is the next step for me. I went out last night after work again and I didn't have any shudders at all when I was done. I'll check again on the way to work though.
If I do get the rotors turned isn't it a good idea to replace the pads too?
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Post by DartBoy01 on Jul 26, 2012 18:24:32 GMT -7
If I do get the rotors turned isn't it a good idea to replace the pads too? It's recommended, but definitely not required. If the pads on it now still look good your probably safe to run them. The brake pads on the SRT's are probably the easiest you could ever do. Honestly you could probably do a brake change with the wheels still on, but it would take you twice as long lol. |
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