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Post by alpinewil81 on Feb 7, 2013 21:28:30 GMT -7
So, driving a Magnum is one thing. Driving an AWD is another. Big Brake kits aren't really an option, so what to do? Well, one upgrade that's pretty inexpensive is the rear brake upgrade from the Daytona's and Police equipped cars. Here's my install. First, park the car in the garage so it looks intimidating when your wife opens the door....  Step one, remove the wheel. Step two, remove the brake calipers. Since this is a complete swap of the caliper bracket, remove and seperate the parts:  Step three, remove the brake rotor. Chances are, if you have a 108k miles you'll need a caressing tool and some other things...  This is the other things... clean the hub with some good penetrating lubricant so that it protects and removes rust. A scrub pad goes a long way too...   The old rotor was only about 12.5" diameter and 22mm thick. The new is 13.6" and 26mm thick.  And of course nows the time to put the rotor in place.  Yeah... did you think I took a pic of the final program. Of course not... that'd make too much sense. Just kidding, here it is:  But in the end the verdict is as predicted. The additional mass of the rotor does help give some more stopping power. I can't complain. I'm a whopping $120 in parts since I tried to do this on a budget friendly note. I did it using all the Napa OEM grade parts to see what its like. A word to the wise, if you are going to do this, the Daytona pads are thinner as are the Police pads. This is due to the rotor thickness. However, they will be special order most likely and if you don't want to wait, there is an option. If you want to go old school... there is a lot you can do with a belt sander and a magnetic level. You can shave a couple millimeters off those there stock AWD pads pretty easily.  Looks factory doesn't it... |
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Post by DartBoy01 on Feb 7, 2013 22:52:07 GMT -7
So wait, did I just read that right? You went to a bigger caliper and rotor, but you put the stock size pad back in? isn't that kind of a contradiction?
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Post by alpinewil81 on Feb 9, 2013 10:58:10 GMT -7
So wait, did I just read that right? You went to a bigger caliper and rotor, but you put the stock size pad back in? isn't that kind of a contradiction? No, putting an incorrect size pad in any rotor doesn't work... they don't fit or they fall out. The caliper is still the stock single piston. The only model to possess a two piston is the SRT. The rotor is larger, and the only other component that is different is the caliper bracket as I stated above. It moves the caliper farther from the hub due to the larger rotor... obviously. No different than big brake combos, the larger rotational mass and greater distance from the hub provide an increased percentage of stopping power. The actual police package has a heavy duty rotor and brake pad combo, its a different composite material similar to that of EBT pads. The Daytona (which is what I've done) is the same design, however it utilizes the OEM compounds of all the other models. Better braking starts with oddly enough as mentioned above, larger rotational mass. The stopping percentage of just upsizing the rear rotor and relocating the caliper is quite significant. The stock pads of the R/T are thicker than the stock pads of the Daytona due to the thicker rotor. Hence I had to get my belt sander out. This is similar to what many elder corvette and muscle car guys do when they come across a brake pad that performs better but doesn't quite fit the application. So far, the braking power of the rear is significantly better. Its nice driving up to a stop light and not having to put my foot down 3/4 of the way to the floor to stop. For the cost effective upgrade that many suggested on LXF, I'm glad to report that it is well worth it. The only thing better for the price would have been to use the heavier duty police grade pads and rotors. But for just a few hundred in parts, I'm not complaining. At least I know it works so from here when the time comes I can look at using the heavier duty pads or getting somethign from EBT. |
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Post by Pogo (Dave) on Feb 9, 2013 13:54:23 GMT -7
Nice write up Will. I haven't touched my car this winter. You may have given me some inspiration to get out there in my cold garage and do something.
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Post by fury3 on Feb 11, 2013 16:17:03 GMT -7
do ya have the napa part numbers still,,,,and do ya know if will this also work on a awd 300
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Post by alpinewil81 on Feb 11, 2013 21:43:29 GMT -7
do ya have the napa part numbers still,,,,and do ya know if will this also work on a awd 300 Yes, it will work on the AWD 300. All the LX cars have the same rear end components. We can take the rear brakes and brackets from any pre 09 model and pretty much swap them around. There are few differences between any of them. Struts and springs being about the only real difference. Its the front that is significantly different on the AWD due to the front CV shafts. I actually did a response in another thread for brakes, something about "how easy is it" or something like that. I listed parts from Mopar and Rockauto. If I'd have not decided to do it at the drop of a hat, I would have used those numbers. I do have my boxes for the Napa parts. I didn't identify my brackets as being from Mopar, they were $150 on top of the $120 at Napa. Napa does offer the brackets as well, I can cross reference a few part numbers and get them to you. For those of us with the AWD, since there are not many options for big brake kits this is a great alternative. This option with a good set of pads and rotors matched to the front has proven to be a fantastic upgrade over stock. Many of the national guys have done it and love it. I love it and I'm using OEM grade parts. |
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Post by fury3 on Feb 12, 2013 11:42:41 GMT -7
part numbers would be sweet i really need something better im on my second set of rotors becouse they are warping and im using the parts plus premium rotors now
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Post by alpinewil81 on Feb 14, 2013 7:43:48 GMT -7
part numbers would be sweet i really need something better im on my second set of rotors becouse they are warping and im using the parts plus premium rotors now Are your fronts warping frequently?  If so, when you do your brakes pull the guide pins from your front calipers out and grease the sh*t out of them. It doesn't take much for one to go dry. I had the ATE brakes on the front and blamed them for their constant warping failure. However, I will say that when I did my own brakes this time I learned the dealership did nothing they were asked to do. My fluid was pitch black and burned (108k fluid) and one of two guide pins was dry, so this doesn't allow the caliper to relax evenly and creates a "hot spot" on the rotor and wears pads unevenly. Since the rear brake job is an upgrade to the Daytona, you'll have to put new bushings in the new brackets and grease them anyway. But the fronts, don't ever listen to a brake shop if they tell you that everything is "fine". People get lazy and just want the dollar. R&R the guide pins is a simple task for anyone to do, its just sad they won't because they just created a repeat customer when they do warp. |
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Post by ponch79 on Feb 14, 2013 21:13:03 GMT -7
Good. Job will !
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If so, when you do your brakes pull the guide pins from your front calipers out and grease the sh*t out of them. It doesn't take much for one to go dry.
